00:00 Getting anything to a Mount Everest hotel, whether on bag or by yak, is a logistical
00:09 nightmare. And if supplies do manage to arrive, they're expensive. One sack of rice costs
00:16 $60, a gallon of gas $113. These lodges, called tea houses, are some of the highest hotels
00:25 in the world. But on Everest, accommodations for climbers look different from the more
00:32 basic lodging used by porters, who work behind the scenes. So what's it like inside these
00:39 tea houses? And how do you run a business at the top of the world? Up here, a single
00:47 cup of milk tea costs nearly 10 times what it does in the valleys of Nepal. One of the
00:54 main reasons is the amount of effort it takes to get supplies up the mountain. That responsibility
01:01 falls to porters. Where guides work directly with climbers, porters get paid to carry supplies.
01:13 At 18 years old, Shashant is one of the youngest porters in his trekking party. Today, there
01:25 are around 20 kilometers between him and his destination, a tea house in Dhingboche.
01:31 I can carry 40-45 kilos of luggage. But I don't carry much because I don't want to
01:43 spend a lot of money. When I'm down here, I feel like I'm in a theatre.
01:53 They carry supplies over 100 kilometers and up 5,300 meters of elevation to base camp.
02:01 Under Nepalese law, trekking porters are supposed to carry no more than 30 kilos. But this is
02:08 often ignored. And some commercial porters, paid by the load, carry more than their own
02:14 body weight. Further along the path to the tea house, a
02:22 helicopter lands to conduct a rescue operation, a stark reminder of how dangerous this job
02:28 is. But the dangerous conditions haven't deterred the traffic. Even at these high elevations,
02:36 climbers, guides and yaks flow through the narrow trails.
02:45 After seven hours of hiking, Shashant finally arrives at a porter house.
02:52 This is Dhingboche, about 4,400 meters above sea level. Typically, porters aren't required
03:00 to pay for lodging, only the food they eat. Climbers and guides stay separate from porters
03:23 at more spacious lodges. These lodges offer more amenities, but are often too expensive
03:29 for porters. Shashant makes about $11 to $12 a day. He says he spends half and saves the
03:37 rest. Shashant hopes to one day become a trekking
03:41 guide and eventually a mountain guide. But for now, he's enjoying a comfortable place
03:47 to sleep and a hot meal.
04:15 Travellers rest at Dhingboche for two days to acclimate to the high elevation. But Shashant
04:27 can't relax for long. After a day of rest, it's time to pack up and get back on the
04:32 trail. It's a snowy April day in Ferreche. This
04:47 is a popular stop for climbers descending from base camp. But this storm could last
04:52 days, and the visibility is low. A foreboding sign for anyone on their way down the mountain.
05:01 But inside, Shiva Bhadur Basnet already has a fire going. He burns dried yak dung instead
05:08 of wood because it's cheaper and widely available. During the busy season, 20 to 50
05:15 people cram in here each night. Shiva has run this tea house for seven years.
05:42 It's a frequent stop for porters returning from Everest base camp.
05:49 a few days.
06:19 Further up the mountain, there are limited accommodations for porters. If they don't
06:23 have a place to stay, many hike down to Ferreche after delivering the climbers' luggage.
06:30 Porters wake up early and hike about two and a half kilometres back up to meet trekking
06:34 guides before the expedition sets off. So at times, Shiva must have breakfast ready
06:41 at 3am. But tonight, the porters have a chance to rest, so Shiva is preparing a leisurely
06:49 dinner for his guests. When flour costs $60 a sack, the options are limited. But Shiva
06:56 makes the most out of what he has.
07:00 On tonight's menu, noodles, stew and dindor, a thick flour porridge that's a staple food
07:07 in this part of Nepal.
07:36 Tea houses like this look different than the more modern accommodations available to climbers,
07:41 some of whom are paying tens of thousands of dollars to summit Everest. Those lodges
07:46 offer more space and better amenities, like separate rooms and showers. Depending on the
07:52 location, climbers often pay less than $10 per night, up to about $60 if you include
07:57 food and electricity.
08:26 Climbers prioritise the foreign climbers, and while porters aren't explicitly banned,
08:31 it's customary for them to stay elsewhere.
08:44 But running a hotel at this altitude is hard work. Every drop of fuel, every piece of gear
08:51 and every morsel of food he needs to keep the place running must be carried up one step
08:57 at a time.
08:59 Consequently, Shiva's operating costs are astronomical.
09:17 And Shiva has to pass these prices on to his guests. The dindor Bajang is eating cost him
09:24 600 rupees, about double what it costs elsewhere in the country. But Shiva can't push prices
09:31 too high. Despite the remote area, there is some competition. So Shiva works hard to ensure
09:38 this is a comfortable place to stay.
09:43 Additionally, local waste removal incentives provide Shiva with the opportunity to earn
09:50 a little extra money.
09:51 Even with the high cost of doing business, running a tea house still provides Shiva with
10:19 more than he's able to earn in his village. He works here for six months to support his
10:25 family and to send his kids to school. During the off-season, he returns home to farm potatoes
10:31 and maize.
10:58 But beyond the financial pressures, Shiva's livelihood provides an essential service to
11:07 his supporters, travelling on the mountain.
11:34 For Shiva, the hard work is worth it for the warmth and community the tea house provides.
11:59 The atmosphere of the shared dormitory and small dining room is more like a home than
12:06 a hotel. Despite the limited amenities, Shashant says he enjoys the camaraderie tea houses
12:12 provide.
12:13 After reaching base camp and more than a week of hiking, Shashant heads back down the trail
12:37 towards the narrow airstrip at Lukla. From here, the climbers fly back to Kathmandu,
12:46 ending their journey.
12:53 But for many porters, the season is still going. They turn around, tie up their bags,
13:00 and start the trek again.
13:13 the trail.
13:14 The trail continues.
