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  • 6 years ago
On this week's Macro Beauty, we see up close what double process bleach does to the hair. We watch as the color is completely lifted and then a new color is reapplied. Press play to see how bleaching hair actually works.

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Transcript
00:00This will be a big departure from my long dark brown locks.
00:05I did not tell my family yet, so we'll see how it goes.
00:09My name is Tiffany and today we will be doing the double process to my dark hair.
00:14I have never dyed my hair before.
00:16I chose the gray double process because I've never done it
00:20and I think it's time to step out of my comfort zone.
00:23And it's because of growing up with strict Asian parents
00:26and even painting my nails was not allowed for the school week.
00:30So this is definitely going to be a departure.
00:33I'm ready to take that next step to express myself as a creative in my role
00:37and who knows where this will lead to.
00:41I absolutely feel that the services that I provide empower others as they are.
00:47Hi, I'm Stephanie Diaz.
00:49I'm a colorist at Loveland Salon in Jersey City, New Jersey.
00:51What a double process actually is,
00:53is completely cleansing the melanin from the hair
00:56and then the second process being applying whatever shade we want to see,
01:02the reflective tone.
01:03There are many factors to consider
01:05and a double process can take anywhere from 2 to 8 hours to complete.
01:09I've been in the hair industry for 17 years.
01:11I've refined those specific details, taking good to great
01:17and that all comes with practice and patience for sure.
01:22Hi, Tiffany.
01:23Hello.
01:23Welcome to Loveland.
01:25So we're going to be doing a double process today.
01:27Yes, we are.
01:27Let me get my hands in your hair so that I can feel what's going on here.
01:32All I've ever done with my hair is cut it really.
01:35Awesome.
01:35As far as your texture type and density,
01:37I think you're an excellent candidate for a double process.
01:40We're really going to be able to get a really nice clean even lift out of your hair.
01:44Very excited.
01:45Me too.
01:46Cool.
01:47I'll be right back.
01:54So the first step of a double process is to section the hair.
01:58Meticulous and clean sectioning is going to set you up for success,
02:03separating into quadrants first and then smaller sections.
02:06First, we have to apply the mid-links to ends with lightener.
02:10The reason being that the root area will lift much faster, as you will see,
02:15because of the heat from the scalp.
02:37Once I get through the lower section, I will alienate it with saran wrap and foil on the ends,
02:46and move on to the right.
02:48And I'll move left to right, up the back of the head,
02:51until I've completely saturated all of the mid-links and ends in the back.
03:04Oxidative color never looks in the bowl how it will look on the hair.
03:09The color is going to penetrate into the hair, and the molecules will work to create the outcome
03:15that you're looking for.
03:16Some magical science happening there.
03:20Once we apply the bleach to the scalp, there can be a range of emotions and feelings that happen.
03:28Sometimes it might burn.
03:30Sometimes it might tingle.
03:33It's important to not wash your hair the day of, or honestly, days leading up to getting your hair double
03:41processed,
03:41because the oil from the scalp will act as a barrier to protect your skin and maintain the comfort within
03:48the surface.
03:50Once we rinse all of the lightener from the hair, that is when we will shampoo the hair.
03:56The shampoo will stop the active ingredients in the lightener and balance the pH so that we can then move
04:02on to glossing.
04:07First, I'll apply in the roots a slightly deeper formula in order to create a shadow.
04:12What that will do is give the illusion that this is a natural hair color.
04:24If you imagine the hair strand as a room, normally in a dark hair strand, the room is full of
04:30furniture.
04:31The furniture being the melanin, the light can't pass through.
04:34But once we clear out that space, removing all of that melanin,
04:39now we have a sheer empty space.
04:42And then we deposit our gloss, and that is our reflective tone.
04:53I personally don't shampoo out my glosses.
04:56I've been taught to allow them to stay in the hair so that they really fully saturate.
05:02But I do condition, again, to stop the process and balance the pH.
05:13Okay, are you ready to see the final reveal?
05:17So excited.
05:18All right, here we go.
05:20Hello.
05:22There she is.
05:25Stephanie!
05:28It's amazing!
05:29How do you feel?
05:31Like a cool grandma, but like in the best way.
05:35I was shocked at first because I've never seen my hair in any other color before.
05:40But I can't stop smiling and couldn't be happier with it.
05:43I was expecting the bleaching process to be a little more uncomfortable and possibly longer,
05:49but it was a shorter and I didn't feel really anything.
05:53Tiffany's hair lifted really beautifully.
05:56It definitely is always a challenge to lift more than six levels in one session.
06:01So I feel very confident that we achieved our goals for sure.
06:05The advice that I got for aftercare and maintaining this color is to sparingly wash my hair,
06:12possibly wait about a week.
06:14Stephanie recommended a sulfate-free shampoo so that I can maintain my color as well as the health of my
06:20hair.
06:20I cannot wait to walk down the street.
06:23Yeah, eyes will be on me, but for good reasons and I'm excited to be that trendsetter.
06:29Thank you for watching Refinery29 YouTube.
06:32To watch more videos like this, click here, and to subscribe, click here.
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