00:00The less activity that was in my life, especially for me, the ocean, like the more medication I found having
00:08to be integrated into my life.
00:10And the more I just the quality of life rapidly decreased with a decrease in natural endorphins and dopamine and
00:20that kind of stuff.
00:21So, you know, I think that for a lot of us, this might be, you know, simple math, but for
00:28me, it took 10 years of looking back at my life being like, well, what changed?
00:34What changed? A lot of the time people would always ask, like, you were such a happy kid. What happened
00:38to you?
00:39And, you know, it's a little bit of a tough way to ask that question.
00:44But what happened was life happened and I wasn't able to worry about one thing, which was my next meal
00:50and then get back in the ocean.
00:52Like I had to start making money. I had to start. I got a job when I started working, which
00:58was like around the age of 14.
01:00And I started traveling and I stopped doing like all this.
01:05You know, I was maybe in New York shooting something or I had to do a thing in Europe that
01:11like, you know, this is more like 15, 16.
01:13And I'm not saying that, oh, I shouldn't, you know, they should have just, my parents should have just let
01:18me surf all day and da, da, da, da, da.
01:20What would the outcome have been? I don't know, but I can say for sure.
01:26And I've, I still firmly believe by, you know, this because there's data activity is important.
01:33And if you're someone who likes dopamine, adrenaline and physical activity is a very important thing to integrate in your
01:40life.
01:40And I think that you will be a lot happier if you do it.
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